Wood Floor Pros: what's your advice on the best click lock engineered flooring?
Q. The floors in two bedrooms in my 80 year old house have 60's era 10" square linoleum tile tightly glued to solid pine subfloors. Seems to me like a perfect substrate for click-lock wood flooring. I've seen types that have the cushion backing already applied to each board section -- how do you feel about those compared to the type where you have to roll out the liner before laying the boards? Also, I'd like a good product (don't mind paying for the value) that's going to be stable, consistent in color and preferably low solvent emission. Any particular brands you've worked with that you recommend highly. I'm thinking I should go engineeered rather than solid for lower cost and the fact that these will not be high-wear areas. The rooms… [cont.]
Asked by c_kayak_fun - Mon Jan 18 11:18:43 2010 - Do It Yourself (DIY) - 2 Answers - Comments

A. I am in building maintenance and I endorse and have used Bruce hardwood flooring products. Be sure to use the underlayment. You have a different problem though and that is the existing floor you have may be asbestos laden. By your description of the age of your house and the size of the tiles it fits the era when that was common to use in flooring. You can remove it your self but be very careful that dust and debris does not contaminate the rest of the house. If you don't remove it and cover it up with the new flooring it will still be a disclosure issue should you ever decide to sell. Professional companies can be hired to remove it and guarantee a safe removal but they charge an arm an a leg. Also by not removing it you will have a… [cont.]
Answered by - Mon Jan 18 18:38:15 2010